Engine Installation

With the clutch installed and gasket surfaces cleaned, it was time to hoist the new engine into the car: lift the engine and transmission at animg_2586 angle, slide them into the engine bay, and start making connections.

I did decide to use the engine mounts that came with the car in case those attached to the new engine were damaged by the fire. Since they are rubber, I thought this would be prudent. Before placing the engine in the car, I washed the engine bay. Not perfect, but much better than before.

On installation, I needed to pay more attention to the transmission. When I removed the drive train, I simply unbolted the transmission and let it hang from the engine. You can see in the left picture below the transmission hanging down, before it was attached to the car. The red steel bars at the bottom of the picture are part of the engine hoist.

In the right picture, you can see the transmission being lifted up using Paul’s transmission jack. Unfortunately, it was too cold to degrease the transmission.

I used the carburetors, alternator, and water pump from the old engine. Just above, you can see the engine before installing these parts (left), and with the carburetors and accelerator linkage (right). The large triangular shape is part of the throttle linkage. It holds the actuator rod that transmits movement from the gas pedal to the carburetors. The rusty piece in the lower background is the exhaust manifold. I was especially pleased that I was able to replace the old, rusty studs with new.

The water pump (above left) bolts onto the front of the engine and moves antifreeze coolant from the engine to the radiator. The bolt on the right of the water pump also holds the alternator bracket. The new engine came with a nice spacer that moves the bracket forward by about 3/8 of an inch. On the right, you can see the front of the engine ready to go.

The next major job is to set the valve clearances and the distributor timing.